Union Tribune Article 9/30/2013

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What it takes to run an organic farm

Morning Song Farm, which is known for its rare fruits and vegetables, is a labor of organic love for San Diego County woman

 

Donna Buono turns on sprinklers that irrigate trees at Morning Song Farm in Rainbow. The farm, which is mostly family-run, has one part-time and one full-time employee. Charlie Neuman • U-T
Donna Buono turns on sprinklers that irrigate trees at Morning Song Farm in Rainbow. The farm, which is mostly family-run, has one part-time and one full-time employee. Charlie Neuman • U-T                              

Donna Buono, who learned many homesteading skills such as cheese making from her grandmother, an astrophysicist with NASA — has always had a desire for rural living. As a child, Buono and her family of five spent the summers camping on her uncle’s Maine farm in a 20-foot trailer, giving her the conviction that she’d rather live in a shack on acreage than a mansion in the suburbs.
Fast forward to now and you will find Buono on her 20-acre organic farm in the small town of Rainbow, in the northern part of San Diego County. What started out as a “hobby” in 2001 is now Morning Song Farm, which grows 70 different fruits, macadamias and heirloom vegetables.
The farm is a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture), and has drop-off points throughout San Diego and Orange counties for its customers to pick up weekly baskets. CSA is sometimes referred to as a “subscription farm” because the consumer buys a subscription from a farmer for a set price to receive fresh produce on a weekly or bi-weekly basis. Morning Song Farm is one of about a dozen CSAs in the county.
Morning Song Farm is known for its rare fruits and vegetables, such as mulberries, pineapple guavas, dragon fruit, and Purslane, a leafy green high in omega-3. More than half of the farm is covered with 700 macadamia trees.
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Donna Buono, owner of Morning Song Farm, with one of her sapote trees. Her original vision was to grow passion fruit and fioja guavas, two underappreciated fruits she loves. Charlie Neuman • U-T photos

A recent weekly Morning Song Farm basket was packed with kale, royal purple beans, cucumbers, beets, passion fruit, pomegranates, green onions, parsley, basil, tomatoes and Purslane. A small CSA box from Morning Song Farm costs $34.50, weekly or biweekly; and a large box runs $44.50, weekly or biweekly. A box of salad fixings goes for $19.75 a week. Morning Song Farm, which is mostly family-run, has one part-time and one full-time employee.
Buono, known as Farmer Donna, is a staunch food advocate, but will be the first to admit that passion aside, organic farming is a tough business. The Chula Vista native talked to U-T San Diego about the challenges and jubilations of owning and running a small organic farm.
Q: What was your motivation behind buying a farm?
A: My original vision was to grow passion fruit and fioja guavas, two underappreciated fruits that I really love. It was supposed to be a hobby. But I realized you can’t run something like this and make it just a hobby. As I started out at the Santa Monica farmers market, it became clear that two mostly out-of-season items on the table wouldn’t even pay the water bill. I wasn’t really thinking in terms of return on investment. I did follow my passion and have ended up doing something I love. In terms of ROI there are probably more lucrative industries to devote one’s life to, so for the young farmer just starting out, I would say that you need passion to get you through the rough times and the unprofitable years.
Q: Why did you choose to become a CSA?
A: I was doing farmers markets, and I love them, but economically it just didn’t pencil out for us. At the end of the day once you pay your employee and pay for gas, you don’t make anything. The CSA model turned out to be great for a mom like me. I didn’t have to work weekends at all anymore, which was life-changing.

With farmers markets, the farmer never knows how much to harvest; rain or a sporting event can change sales figures substantially. We gave or threw away a lot of food. With a CSA, you only harvest for the exact number of boxes you are preparing for your subscribers. We started the CSA with a single friend of mine who had admired the beautiful produce on my kitchen counter.

She and I shared in the cost to grow a vegetable garden, and we split the produce each week. Several other girlfriends joined in soon after, and we were off. Soon friends of friends asked to join.
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The chickens at Morning Song Farm like to hang out in the macadamia trees at night. Seventy fruits, vegetables and nuts are grown on the 20-acre organic farm in North County.

Q: What are the challenges of marketing a CSA to consumers?
A: We don’t do a lot of marketing. We use Susco Media’s Z Code Magazines to get the word out a little bit. We also advertise in the two local newspapers. For small farms like mine, getting the word out can be an issue.
Advertising is expensive. A majority of San Diegans who want non-GMO organic foods in their homes are still not aware of CSAs. Every single local organic farm should have a waiting list and should be maxed out. That’s not happening yet. There is no strategy for strong growth.
We haven’t had much growth in years, and have had about the same number of subscribers.
Q: What have been some of your biggest challenges?

A: As a small farmer I think talented labor is a huge issue. So much of our farming knowledge was coming from Mexico, and then there was a crackdown on labor laws and immigration issues. Immigration laws changed the face of farming in California. It’s been said that it takes at least 20 years to know what you are doing in farming. That knowledge base is precious. Current California law also states that farm internships are noncompliant. That’s a problem industry wide. The average age of a farmer in California is 60, which is scary. Where are the young people just starting out supposed to learn? We have a knowledge base that is not transferring as fast as it needs to. And many small family farmers aren’t expecting their children to continue the family farm, because the kids see firsthand the economic trade-offs that are involved and decide to do something else.
Q: How do you deal with profit pressure?
A: We’re profitable most months, but we would be much stronger by simply increasing our CSA subscriber base. We have a much larger capacity for production than we are utilizing.
photo
September 25, 2013, Rainbow, California, USA_| Chickens stand in the shade of a tree at Morning Song Farm. The chickens there produce many eggs.|_Mandatory Photo Credit: Photo by Charlie Neuman/UT San Diego/Copyright 2013 San Diego Union-Tribune, LLC

We’re considering adding macadamia tours, a farm experience bed-and-breakfast, a sprouting class, and more cheese classes to diversify our income base and increase exposure.
Q: What fuels you to get up before dawn every day to farm?
A: I really believe in myself and I think I can do it. Healthy food should not be considered a luxury. I have an infectious passion for amazing fruits and vegetables. Many of our subscribers say they feel like it’s Christmas when they open their boxes every week.

Donna Buono

Hobbies: Fixing up her old farmhouse, taking care of her llama and goats, hiking and jet skiing.
Favorite quote: “Is there anything sadder than the foods of the 1950s? Canned, frozen, packaged concoctions, served up by the plateful, three meals per day, in an era in which the supermarket was king, the farmers market was, well, for farmers, and the word ‘locavore’ sounded vaguely like a mythical beast.” — Jeffrey Kluger
Career path: Although she took as many horticultural classes as she could, Buono ended up with a business administration degree from Saddleback College. “I was afraid I might end up working at a neighborhood nursery chain selling ornamentals. If you can’t eat it, I’ve never been interested.”

Subscription farm

Morning Song Farm is one of about a dozen Community Supported Agriculture farms in the county. The consumer buys a subscription from a farmer for a set price to receive fresh produce on a weekly or biweekly basis.
Cost: A small box is $34.50, weekly or biweekly; and a large box runs $44.50, weekly or biweekly.
Sample contents: Kale, royal purple beans, cucumbers, beets, passion fruit, pomegranates, green onions, parsley, basil, tomatoes and Purslane.
I’m really excited about the new things that are successfully growing, such as our dragon fruit, olives, and sapote. We’re just starting a trial of carissa plums. It’s a lot of hard work and most of my customers are aware of that. I also have a blog, and love to tell our farm stories. We recently started a cheese-making class here, which is another way to get people interested in the farm and in great food.

Harvest Tickets for Week of October 1-2

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We’re now providing a link so that everyone can read our harvest ticket regardless of platform used. Please let us know if you encounter difficulties. I’m excited to use Dropbox, because when the need to revise a Harvest Ticket comes up, now it’s feasible! The old way with going from Word to PDF to Gif and then downloading half a dozen gifs and then fighting the Blogger software to get them to download sequentially was so cumbersome, an omission on the ticket had to just be ignored. Now we can revise easily!
Click here to view this week’s harvest ticket!

Cauliflower Hummus Dip

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The flavor fresh steamed cauliflower is so mild that you’re able to pretty much control the flavor of your hummus with the spices you add.  Have fun and make a spicy version by adding cayenne, or up the flavor ante with some extra garlic. Now, I did try it raw as well, and it was tasty, but not as creamy.

Drizzle your finished dip with some olive oil and a pretty sprinkle of sweet paprika.

Here’s what you need:

  • I used a half head of cauliflower, steamed
  • 2 Tablespoons tahini
  • 2 Tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 clove garlic
  • juice from 1 lime
  • dash of sea salt and black pepper
  • pinch of cumin, paprika, garlic powder, turmeric, and onion powder

  1. Throw all of the ingredients into a food processor and blend until smooth.
  2. Taste and add more seasoning as you see fit.
  3. Serve with sliced veggies, olives and homemade almond flour crackers.

Cheesey Cauliflower Casserole

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This is surprisingly easy to make, and brings out the complex flavors of the cauliflower. Even my kids enjoy cauliflower served this way:

Ingredients:

  • Half a medium sized cauliflower…no need to pare off the commonly seen little bit of brown on this vegetable…image below…that’s not mold, it’s oxidation and is rarely avoided when grown in the hotter months.
  • 3 cloves of garlic
  • half a cup of Queso Fresca cheese, crumbled into large chunks
  • quarter cup of shredded parmesan cheese
  • half cup of bread crumbs
  • dash of olive oil
  • one pound of hamburger
  • diced green onions or chives
  • sprinkle of Grizzly Joe’s Natural Chipolte seasoning (www.grizzlyjoes.com)

Process:

  • Brown your hamburger, drain and set aside.
  • Dice up cauliflower
  • Combine cauliflower and hamburger, then mix in crush garlic and Queso Fresca.
  • Top with bread crumbs, parmesan cheese  a dash of olive oil, green onions/chives and Chipolte seasoning
  • Bake at 375 until the cauliflower is tender but not mushy
  • Serve at once

Winter Squash Soup

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I’ve always loved all things Winter Squash and have trialed numerous celebrated squashes in pursuit of the perfect squash, and I believe we may have found it in Sibley. Listed on the Ark of Taste, the awkward, strangely shaped bluish fruit lacks the qualities sought after in factory farmed produce. It doesn’t stack well. It offers nothing in the way of uniformity.  It ripens slowly over a few months, instead of all at once. It’s not disease resistant, and the seeds are expensive. But the taste is sublime, complex, even somewhat nutty. The unusual thing about Sibley, offered by a few heirloom seed companies, is that although it is a winter squash, meaning it has a hard shell and can be harvested and stored for later use…it can also be used like a zucchini when very young.  We’re growing Sibley and an heirloom zucchini, and are trying to put one or the other in all large boxes right now. I don’t think we could FIT a Sibley in a small box with everything else, although like I said, some Sibleys are huge and don’t fit in large boxes either…and occasionally we find one that is not much larger than a pummelo.

Ark of Taste Project is a special listing of unique foods established by Slow Food, the food advocacy organization. They’ve catalogued over a 1000 unique foods that are labeled extraordinarily delicious and endangered, including Sibley.

Here’s how I enjoyed the fruit this week with a friend for lunch: I halved the squash with a serrated knife, scooped out the seed (and saved it of course…Sibley is open pollinated so the seeds will come up true to type next year) and baked until soft at 350 degrees. I let cool to handle, and then spooned out the flesh into a Cuisinart with some low fat unflavored yogurt and a quarter cup of walnuts. I tossed in a couple cloves of garlic, salt, pepper and a quarter of a jalapeno for heat, and pureed. I reheated just before serving and once in bowls I topped with bread crumbs and shredded parmesan cheese, and used a kitchen torch to toast and melt the cheese at the table.

 

 

 

Thanks for the tip!

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OK, although the google upload thing worked for some subscribers last week, others said they couldn’t get the file opened to view our harvest tickets. A member of the public ( thanks, Ms. Leeds) provided another suggestion, which is vastly easier and I’m trialing this week. So I’m using her suggestion,  Dropbox,  this week, which provides a link you have to click, and then the PDF should open for everyone. Please do let me know if it doesn’t open for you!

Don't Hate Me 'Cuz I'm Hairy ;)

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Notice the tiny root hairs and how
 the roots are growing together

Tuesday’s boxes have radish sprouts. Like all brassicas, radishes have tiny, web-like hairs that to the uninitiated can certainly look like something funky…. say, mold. Here’s an image provided by a fellow subscriber last week (last week, Wednesday boxes received radish sprouts, this week they’ll receive our French Garden mix sprouts (which is a sprightly blend of clover, arugula, cress, radish, fenugreek and dill.) It’s quite a moving target to get a radish sprout that is both green but not over grown. Harvest too soon, and the sprout isn’t green; and harvest too late and the sprout is hotter than most peoples’ tastes. Facility temperatures can affect the growth rate so that as the weather changes, we are constantly adjusting the start day/hour to get a perfect finish. Even brassica (kale, radish, etc.) sprouts that are harvested a full day too soon will have tiny hairs and connecting webs of roots. It’s most noticeable with radish seed because radish is the largest brassica seed we sprout, so their hairy roots are just more noticeable to the naked eye. Because radish sprouts are definitely spicy, I enjoy using them on sandwiches in lieu of boring….boring….boring alfalfa sprouts. Of course sprinkling your raw salad with a dash of crunchy, spicy, radishes is a tasty choice, too! My kids also enjoy rolling radish sprouts in rice paper and serving as an appetizer with a offsetting mild-flavored dip.

Farmer not an IT Professional

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Well, after much knashing of teeth and tearing of hair out, I think I have managed to figure out how to get PDF files to download over to this blog, with the intent of making our Harvest Tickets easier to read and access from different platforms. Mind blowingly complicated considering the download mechanism (Google’s “Drive”) AND the blog software are both owned by Google. Really, there can’t just be a “download PDF” button? It has to require studying 11 pages of instructions downloaded off the internet, viewing a U-Tube video from an Indian IT guru dozens of times to figure out and HTML code management (here….I’m not kidding…this is from page five: “after copying the code go to Blogger.com..create a new post…select HTML Tab, and paste the code where you would like to see the document to appear. Now within the code that you pasted few moments a go (sic) search for /preview and replace it with /edit?usp=sharing….)  Really?

Feedback of the results would be welcomed. Can you access the files as I think you should be able to?

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